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Parabuntal |
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weaving
of abaca fiber into cloths called "sinamay" using a modern
hand loom |
extile Weaving was an important pre-Hispanic tradition. The fabric
which caught the attention of the Spaniards was the "Nipis".
In the 17th century the
Visayans were described as wearing garments made of Nipis/Sinnamay, which was
woven from stalks of the Abaca plant. Later the term nipis came to
refer to fabrics made from other fibers.
To make these cloths,
the bark of certain trees are stipped and spun into rough threads
and woven in traditional looms common at that time.
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Traditional
weaving generally uses indigenous fibers which are quite abundant
but not limited to: ramie, jusi (raw
silk), maguey, pina (pineapple fibers), and the more popular Abaca
and Raffia fiber. The
entire weaving process - from the stripping of the bark to the tying
of the fibers to the weaving of the cloth - were done by hand. Today,
only little has changed. Some parts of the process may be mechanized
but not to a great extent. The process is still the arduous and time
consuming way.
This section is provided to give only a general idea as to what the
process entails. To enlighten and give a sense of appreciation to
the commitment and dedication these traditional artists give to their craft.
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The
first step in the weaving of natural fibers is to connect the individual
fiber strands by knotting it end to end. After which the connected
fibers are then transferred to a spinning wheel where it will be spooled/coned later
to be transfered again to hand looms.
Depending on the practice adopted by the area, the process may be
done separately or together. In the photograph at the top, the process
is done together. As the the fiber is roped in, it is simultaneously winded
in the spining wheel. However, in the photograph at the bottom right,
the fiber (at the right of the photograph) is already lashed together
and is subsequently being looped. We should also take note that the
spinning wheel may be semi-mechanized, as shown in the top and leaf
photos, and may be winded in sections (groups of knotted fiber winded
at the same time on the same cone/spool). The process may take 1 person 5
days to 1 week to produce 1 kilo of knotted or twisted Abaca strand.
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After
the knotted or twisted strands has been winded, it is then transferred to the looms.
Again these can be done in several ways, the rightmost photo shows
that the fiber has been winded and threaded (inserted into the
reeds) into the loom in sections (photo showing 3 sections) while
the bottom left displays the traditional way by threading of the knotted
fiber (either unwinded or winded) one by one. Later, the weaver will
have to rewind the fiber on the loom. This phase may take about 1-2
days.
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When
the loom has been properly threaded, then it is time to prepare
the shuttle. This is first winded with Abaca thread then thrown
left and right between opposite threads. This is the weft of
the cloth. |
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Finally, the weaving begins. A skilled weaver is able to produce
2-3 meters a day of a 36 inch width Sinamays/Sinnemay cloth. A less skilled
worker may produce 1-2 meters a day. |
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The final step would then be to cut the cloth from the loom.
During production, regular inspections are made to ensure quality. After cutting, a final inspection is made to ensure the quality of
the cloth and accuracy of specifications before preparation for shipment
is made. This is Peral Enterprises' commitment to her customers.
Quality assured. On further buyer's request, the fabric- Quingmay/Sinnamai - are bleached, stiffened, dyed and fast colored.
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